Cata por KEVIN DONEGAN

Very perfumed and fresh nose—roses and violets, and also alcohol, all still a bit compressed together, but this is going to be a powerful wine. A little oak on the nose but it’s not dominant. Reminds me a little of Barolo, in this way, with the fruit perfume and some balsamic notes from the wood.

 

On the palate, it’s Initially a bit tight—it has both a tannic edge and is a bit closed, but still showing loganberry and other forest fruit flavours. 

 

Over time, the wine opens up, and the Tempranillo became more dominant: strawberry/cherry, maybe a touch of earth and leather.

 

Long, persistent, fruit-spicy yet still fresh finish, keeps you coming back for more

 

The wine is very balanced considering it’s relatively high alcohol level, and structured due to tannins and some barrel ageing, but it is certainly not over-structured by wood. It is supple in the modern style of lighter extraction, emphasising fruit aromas and flavour. But while generous, ripe and attractive now (with decanting) it still has the balance, acidity and structure to improve for 5-7 years, or more, if you can wait that long.

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This will appeal to consumers who like Tempranillo but are tiring of overly-oak-structured Ribera del Duero-style wines, as well as aficionados of modern, high-toned, fruit-acid-forward, old-vine Garnacha and Rufete.

 

At under €12 it’s a great value.

 

Tempranillo, Rufete, Garnacha and others, from Sierra de Salamanca and Zamora. Vino de España. 15% alc.

 

KEVIN DONEGAN

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